Method of securing together moccasin vamps and plugs



June 7, 1949, H. PHILLIPS METHOD OF SECURING TOGETHER MOCCASIN VAMPS ANDPLUGS v 2 Sheets-Sheet 1 Filed March 19, 1946 INVENTOR ATTORNEYS June1949- H. PHILLIPS METHOD OF SECURING TOGETHER I MOCCASIN VAMPS AND PLUGSI Filed March 19, 1946 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 INVENTQR HAPPY fl/LL/PS BYW LTATTORNEYS Patented June 7, 1949 FFlCE Harry Phillips,.New. York, N. Y.Application lviarch 19, 1946, Serial No. 655,423

1 Claim. 1'.

I his invention relatesv to an improvement in the method ofmanufacturing the so-called moccasin type of' shoe, that is,v a shoe ofthe true moccasin type.

Such shoes have been previously made by a method which includes handstitching the vamp to the upper while on a last. In the use of this newmethod the costly hand stitching onthe last is eliminated and theresultant shoe retains the characteristic of the true moccasin type ofshoe having the raised seam around the fore part where the outer edgesof the plug and the front section of the upper are joined together.

Broadly stated, the invention includes the steps of temporarilystitching, by hand or otherwise, the front portion of the upper to theupturned edges of the plug and then machine stitching these same edgestogether below the line of the hand stitching. Both of these operationsare performed without the use of a last. After these operations, thestitched edges are cut or severed so as to remove the parts which areheld together by the temporary stitching. This leaves the shoe with theraised seam effect having the regular machine stitches. .The shoe isthen finished in the usual manner.

To the accomplishment of the foregoing and such other objects as mayhereinafter appear the invention consists in the method and processhereinafter described, it being understood, however, that variouschanges ma be made in practice within the scope of the appended claimwithout digressing from my inventive idea.

In the drawings,

Figure 1 represents a perspective view of a finished moccasin type shoemade in accordance with my invention.

Figure 2 represents a vertical section taken on line 2-2 of Figure 1,before the shoe is finished and showing both the temporary stitching andthe permanent stitching connecting the edges of the vamp to the edges ofthe upper and before the parts which are joined by the temporarystitching are severed or cut.

Figure 3 is a vertical section taken on line 3-3 of Figure 1 looking indirection of the arrows.

Figure 4 is a vertical section taken on line dl of Figure 1 looking indirection of the arrows.

Figure 5 is a rear elevation of the finished moccasin type shoe.

Figure 6 is a top plan view of the bottom of the heel portion thereofbefore the lift is fitted.

Figure 7 represents views of the series of blanks from which the shoeupper and heel portions are made and include the following: A is thelarge blank which is made of suitable leather or other material andforms the bottom, sides and upper of the shoe, B isthe blank which isused to form theplug of the completed shoe, C and D are two parts whichconstitute the back stay, E represents a blank which in the finishedshoe is stitched over the upper andthe rear part of the plug, Frepresents a blank which is stitched around. the top edge of the. rearportion of the upper.

It is not believed to be necessary to describe the details of the shapeof the larger blank A, which, when assembled, forms the bottom and sidesof the upper of the completed shoe. However, it is important to notethat the edge of the front portion is perforated with a series of holesI, these holes being uniformly spaced. The smaller blank B, which, asstated, later forms the plug of the complete shoe, has a portion 2 whichcorresponds in configuration to the forward portion of the blank A. Thisportion 2 of blank B is also perforated, as at 3, around its edge, theseperforations being spaced equi-distantly. It is to be noted, however,that these perforations are spaced apart a less distance than thedistance between the perforations I of blank .A,

The first step of the process includes the stitching of the edges of theblanks A and B together with the plug blank edge upturned in contactwith the bottom blank sides, the stitches ll (Figure 2) extendingthrough the complementary perforations l and 3 and preferably being madeby hand. This operation roughly forms the fore part of the moccasin, asit temporarily secures the plug and the fore part of the upper together.

After this operation the assembly is permanently stitched, preferably bymachine, on a line 5 below the line of the temporary stitching abovereferred to. After this permanent line of stitching is completed, orduring the stitching thereof, the top edges of the joined plug andupper, including the temporary stitching, are severed or cutsubstantially along the line 5-5 of Figure 2, so that the fore part ofthe shoe has the appearance illustrated in Figure 1.

After this operation has been performed, the back stay, composed of theblanks C and D, is placed in position, the blank E is sewed across therear end of the plug and the corresponding part of the upper, and theblank F is sewed or otherwise secured to the rear portion of the upperedge of the upper.

The shoe is then placed is then cemented in place. to the upper as shownin on a last and the sole Then the sole is sewed Figures 3 and 4, and

afterwards thelift or heel G is secured thereto, in accordance withstandard practice.

Most of these operations are more or less standard. The important partof my improvement involves a temporary stitching of the edges of thevamp to the upper edges of the upper and then permanent stitching ofthese edges together on a line below the line of the temporary stitchingand then the severing of the material between the two lines ofstitching.

These operations are performed without the use of a last.

The result is a completed shoe of the moccasin type having a uniformmachine stitching of the edges of the vamp to the upper edges of theupper. The shoe is the same in construction and appearance as a shoemade in accordance with standard practice but the method above describedgives much greater economy in production and actually produces a shoe ofbetter construction and appearance.

What I claim is:

The method of manufacturing a shoe of the true or genuine moccasin type,which includes the provision of a leather blank for the bottom and sidesof the completed shoe, said blank being perforated around the edges ofits fore part, providing a plug which is perforated around the edges ofits fore part, such perforations being spaced apart a less distance thanthe spacing of the perforations around the edges of said first mentionedblank, assemblin the blank and plug together with the plug edge upturnedin contact with the bottom blank sides by stitching through the alinedand complementary perforations so as to connect the edge of the plug tothe edge of the fore part of the bottom blank, then permanentlystitching said blank and plug together along a line below the line ofsaid first mentioned stitchin and severing them along the line betweensaid two rows of stitching.

HARRY PHILLIPS.

REFERENCES CITED The following references are of record in the file ofthis patent:

UNITED STATES PATENTS Number Name Date 1,052,133 Curtin Feb. 4, 19131,128,902 Rawlings Feb. 16, 1915 1,841,328 Gogin Jan. 12, 1932 2,108,415Simister Feb. 15, 1938 2,302,580 Shields Nov. 17, 1942 2,329,819 BraunSept. 21, 1943 2,381,356 Lee Aug. '7, 1945 2,421,521 Lee Dec. 10, 1946

